Trip Diary – Day 3 – Pocking, Memorial Event, Beer with the Mayors

Woke up around 7:30 and had breakfast. Began writing this document and transferring photos to the computer. Had a scare when the power caused this computer to make a bad sound and shut down. Left the computer alone, put in a new battery and it restarted, thankfully.

Random Walk around Pocking
We walked around Pocking for a few hours, stopping at bookstores, and at Monika’s store to buy some water. Had a little time to kill before we were going to be picked up by George for the dedication of the Children’s Memorial.

Children’s Memorial Service
We changed into our suits, were picked up by George, and we drove over to Passau, picking up Shelley and heading over to my grandfather’s memorial and the new Children’s Memorial. We got there early so that we could look around at the memorials before the crowds appeared. It was raining lightly (got a little stronger and much windier as the afternoon progressed). The place has a wall and trees between the road and the memorial (put in place when they tried to hide the monument in the 50s and 60s and let it go to waste). Now the wall has some of the names of those buried there (from the original memorial) and the original, tall memorial has blank spaces where the plates with the names used to be. It upset my mother that they moved those plates and she’s going to try to have them fix it. From the main, tall memorial (the original) you go up a short flight of stairs on the left to the new children’s memorial.
 
We also met a woman who had come after reading about the ceremony in the papers. She wanted to place a stone and a rose on the tomb for the children. She wouldn’t or couldn’t describe why she wanted to be there.
 
The ceremony took place. My mother, Ami and I all spoke as did Anna and others. I have it on video and hope to put it online at some point – but it will probably wait till after I have all the text and pictures up. In the meantime, you can read the text of my speech here.
 
A few notes on the memorial for the children – it’s for the children who died in the Displaced Persons (DP) camps. After the war, women had been so undernourished that most of their children were born with spina bifida – and due to the lack of medical capabilities after the war, most of them died from infections – there were also claims that one woman had puctured a number of them with an infected needle as well. I don’t know enough about this story. This was a memorial to those who died after the war, due to its aftereffects.

Beer with the Mayors
We left the service and headed into Pocking to the hotel, where the three mayors met us in our hotel for some beers. Pocking is a town of only 15,000 people, so why does it need 3 mayors? It’s because there’s a tradition that from the time you turn 18, and every 5 years after that, the mayor joins you at your birthday for a party. They can have up to 10 of these a week, and they need the three to eat the cake. <g>

The pictures attached are as follows:

  • Anna speaking. Behind her is her daughter, Bea Grace – recently returned from Iraq where she worked in JAG preparing evidence for the trials of Saddam Hussein and his cronies.
  • My mother standing near one of the plates.
  • The original memorial
  • The new children’s memorial
  • Shelley Shapiro and the woman
  • From left to right: the Rabbi of Passau, my mother, Shelley Shapiro and Anna Rosmus
  • On the left is the mayor, Jakob. To his right is the first deputy mayor, Franz
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Various links about the trip

Here are some links that I’ve found about the trip and the memorial:

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Trip Diary – Day Two – Pocking, Bad Griesbach

Pocking and my grandparents’ old house

Ami and I (we were sharing a room, as were Mom and Yehudit) woke up around 7:30am, showered, dressed and waited for our mothers, and headed down for breakfast around 9am. At 10:30, with church bells ringing (it was a holiday in Bavaria, Father’s Day, and everyone was dressed up and going to Church – many children were dressed up in native clothes), we went for another walk around Pocking, stopped by the main square (where the main church is located) and walking around some residential neighborhoods. We then decided to find the house where Mom, Yehudit and their parents lived right after WW2 (from the end of 1945 to May, 1949 when they moved to Israel). After a number of wrong turns, we found it, having passed it a few times (they had added a front section to the building around 8 years ago, adding commercial space for a grocery store).
 
There was a woman, Monika, cleaning the store. She told us that she didn’t have the key for the upstairs, but showed us around the back of the store – which had been part of the house. The storeroom was where the prayers had taken place (as Rabbi of the town, services were held downstairs in the house), and what had been a small study was now a large bathroom area. Monika gave us the phone # of the family that owned the building so that we could possibly get a key to look upstairs.

I asked how they got the house so quickly after World War Two, and my mother explained that there was a DP camp outside of town where many of the Jews lived while they figured out where they would go. My grandfather, in addition to reburying the mass graves, worked to find homes for the 8000 refugees. The allied command confiscated the house (it had been owned by the town) and gave it to my grandfather to use while doing this work. After the last refugee found a home (most ended up in Israel, US or Canada), my grandfather and the family left as well and the house was returned to the town.
 
Bad Griesbach

After this, we got the mini-bus and Ami drove us to Bad Griesbach. Bad Griesbach is Europe’s largest mineral baths. We went in and went among the various areas – all of different temperatures, some like jacuzzi’s, some with waterfalls, etc. Very relaxing afternoon. We were there from around 3pm to 5:30pm. We then walked and drove around the grounds (lots of resorts and golf courses for those coming for the baths).
 
Dinner in Pocking

Around 6:30pm, we drove the 12 kilometers back to Pocking and had dinner at an Italian restaurant. Excellent Napoli-like pizza, and I had a great Caprese salad. We then drove around the area for an hour, looking to see if my mother and Yehudit could find the location of the old DP camp, but we couldn’t – we think it’s no longer there (note: later in the week, the mayor of Pocking took us to where the camp stood). We then returned to the hotel where I was asleep by 9pm.

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The photos are as follows:

  • Bad Griesbach – central square
  • Entrance to the baths
  • Yehudit and my mother in front of their old house in Poking
  • Ami and Monika

 

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Trip Diary – Day One – Munich, Passau, Pocking

Munich

Landed at the airport around 7am Munich time, walked from Terminal One to Terminal F which is exclusively for El Al. It seems to be an old original terminal – separated from the rest and guarded more carefully by armed soldiers. The main terminal is new – wide aisles, tons of shops and restaurants. You walk about 15-20 minutes to arrive at the old Terminal F. No waiting area inside – passengers only. There’s an enclosed area outside for those who are waiting. I waited till around 10:30 when my mother, Yehudit (aunt) and Ami (cousin – Yehudit’s son) arrived. We met George, a guy around 36 years old, who had been sent by the mayor of Pocking to get us. We then trekked back to my old terminal to pick up Shellie Shapiro who had helped raise funds with Anna Rosmus to restore the memorial.

Pocking

George drove us the 2 hours to Pocking, dropping off Sheila first in Passau (a town around 20 minutes away). Sheila was joining a tour of WW2 vets in progress before meeting us on Friday for the rededication ceremony.

We checked in at our hotel, met the assistant Mayor who welcomed us and informed us that we were going to join Anna in Passau at the Museum of Modern Art (a private museum – we met the owner, a 90 year old man who spoke no English). We had an hour to clean up and unpack, and then George drove us back to Passau.  

Passau

The museum was interesting, the best part being a private tour (the photographers from the local paper and TV were asked to leave) of his room full of around 15-20 original Picassos. He stated that they weren’t ready to be shown until he found the proper building for them.

After the museum, we walked around Passau (by the Danube) for an hour to a library which had been the birthing hospital. One woman we were with had been born there – they showed us around and gave her a gift as a memento from the library store. Anita – a woman from NY who had moved to Passau in the 60s drove us back to Pocking. I left my phone in Anita’s car (it fell out of my pocket as I slept – jet lag). I called her later and made plans to retrieve it on Friday at the memorial ceremony.

Pocking redux

We had dinner at the hotel restaurant (only 3 vegetarian items – Gnocchi in a red sauce, Spaetzle in cream and cheese, and boiled veggies with cheese). We shared all three.

Ami, Mom and I went for a walk around Pocking (15 minutes, max) – everything was closed but Ami did get some ice cream. We then went to bed – asleep by 9pm.

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The photos are as follows:

  • Yehudit, my mother, and me on the minibus on the way to Pocking.

  • George, Yehudit and Ami near the minibus.

  • The programs from the three events we attended. The left one is the tolerance event, the middle is the dedication of the children’s memorial near the memorial my grandfather erected in 1946, and the right one is the Sabbath service in Passau.

  • The group in front of the library that used to be a maternity hospital. The woman 3rd from the left was born there. Anita is fourth from the left.

  • Ami on the minibus.

  • George and my mother.

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Pre-Article about the memorial event

This was posted on the Remember the Women Institute’s website before the event:

Anna Rosmus, an Advisory Board member of Remember the Women Institute, is organizing a 60th Anniversary of the Liberation of Germany along the Danube River by General Patton’s Third Army. American veterans from the 65th and the 71st Infantry and the 13th Armored Division, survivors of concentration camps (KZ-Aussenlager) in the region, including Straubing, Hersbruck, Plattling, Eggenfelden, Pocking, and Passau, and from the DP camp established at Waldstadt after the liberation are traveling to Passau. The event is scheduled to take place in May 2005…

http://www.rememberwomen.org/Projects/danube.html

You can read the whole thing there.

 

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My grandparents are reunited after the war

After the war, when my grandfather was placed as one of those working to find homes for the refugees and as Rabbi in Pocking, a man came saying he was going to head to Budapest. My grandfather asked him to see if he could find any news of my grandmother and his kids. The man (don’t know his name), went to the main synagogue in Budapest and found a sign among hundreds that said that Sarah Meisels is alive and living at ‘x’. He visited her and told her that her husband was alive and Rabbi in Pocking. My grandmother didn’t believe him, but said that she’d go to see. She left her daughters (my mother and aunt) with her aunt (who had also survived) and headed to Pocking. She found my grandfather and they spoke for hours. Finally, she said “I’ve been here for hours and you haven’t asked about your daughters”. He answered that when he saw her without her daughters he was afraid to ask. My grandmother then returned to Budapest and picked up their daughters and returned to Pocking around December of 1945.

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My grandfather’s rescue from the camps

My grandfather was lucky in many ways (strange ways, to be sure, but still lucky). He was in Auschwitz. When the allies bombed the railway stations near Passau, he was sent to Buchenwald to help rebuild. He was close to death (under 83 pounds) when the allies freed the town and the camp. My grandfather was in a pile of bodies to be buried, when an American soldier, Sidney Schachtmeister, noticed him barely moving. Schachmeister grabbed my father and bullied his way into a hospital, insisting that they take him. This saved his life. Many of the freed inmates died when the soldiers gave them normal food and chocolate – they couldn’t handle the rich food. My grandfather was treated for a month or so in the hospital, with Shachtmeister visiting when he could and keeping in touch afterwards.

You can see the photo better in the Germany photo album on the right, but this is the photo that Sidney Schachtmeister took when he noticed that my grandfather was alive. He’s the one in the middle, facing up.

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